Best Financial Planner Award 2010
August 25, 2010 by Jean Keener, CRPC, CFDP · Leave a Comment
Thank you Keller Citizen readers for voting Keener Financial Planning Best Financial Planner again for 2010! The Keller Best of the Best issue for 2010 publishes September 22, and I was delighted to find out yesterday that, through your votes, Keener Financial Planning was selected for the second year in a row.
Keener Financial Planning’s mission is to provide objective financial advice on an as-needed advice to residents of Keller and surrounding areas for retirement planning, investments, college planning, and other financial decisions. Thank you to all of you who voted. Your support is greatly appreciated.
August 2010 Personal Finance Newsletter
August 13, 2010 by Jean Keener, CRPC, CFDP · Leave a Comment
The August 2010 personal finance newsletter is now available. It includes information on how college scholarships are taxed, how the new healthcare law affects Medicare drug plans, and, as always, an investment market update. Enjoy! Click here to view the newsletter.
Social Security File-And-Suspend Strategy
August 13, 2010 by Jean Keener, CRPC, CFDP · Leave a Comment
If you’re married and looking for opportunities to increase retirement income, you may want to look closely at your Social Security benefits. One opportunity for maximizing Social Security income, called “file-and-suspend,” may enable a married couple to boost both their retirement and survivor’s benefits.
What is file-and-suspend?
Generally, a husband or wife is entitled to receive a Social Security retirement benefit based either on his or her own earnings record (a worker’s benefit), or on his or her spouse’s earnings record (a spousal benefit), whichever is higher. But under Social Security rules, a husband or wife who is eligible to file for retirement benefits based on his or her spouse’s record cannot do so until his or her spouse begins receiving benefits. However, there is one exception–someone who has reached full retirement age may choose to file for retirement benefits, then immediately request to have those benefits suspended, so that his or her eligible spouse can file for spousal benefits.
File-and-suspend is a strategy that may be used in a variety of situations, but is commonly used when one spouse has much lower lifetime earnings, and thus will receive a higher retirement benefit based on his or her spouse’s earnings record. (A husband or wife’s spousal benefit may be as much as 50% of what his or her spouse is entitled to receive at full retirement age.) Using this strategy not only allows the eligible spouse with lower earnings to immediately claim a higher (spousal) retirement benefit, but can also increase the amount of available survivor protection. The spouse with higher earnings who has suspended his or her benefits can accrue delayed retirement credits at a rate of 8% per year (the rate for anyone born in 1943 or later) up until age 70. Because a surviving spouse will generally receive a benefit equal to 100% of the retirement benefit the other spouse was receiving (or was entitled to receive) at the time of his or her death, suspending a benefit to accrue delayed retirement credits may substantially increase the survivor’s benefit.
Example
Let’s look at one hypothetical example of how filing for, then suspending, Social Security benefits might help a married couple increase their retirement income and survivor’s benefits.
Henry and Julia are a married couple living in Keller, TX. Henry is about to reach his full retirement age of 66, but he wants to postpone filing for Social Security benefits. At full retirement age his monthly benefit will be $2,000, but if he waits until age 70 to file, his benefit will be $2,640 (32% more) due to delayed retirement credits. However, his wife Julia, who has had substantially lower lifetime earnings than Henry, wants to retire in a few months at her full retirement age (also 66). Based on her own earnings record, Julia will be eligible for a monthly benefit of $700, but based on Henry’s earnings record she will be eligible for a monthly spousal benefit of $1,000 (50% of Henry’s entitlement).
So that Julia can receive the higher spousal benefit as soon as she retires, Henry files an application for benefits, but immediately suspends it. That way, he can also continue to earn delayed retirement credits, which will result in a higher monthly retirement benefit for him later.
Using the file-and-suspend strategy not only increases Julia and Henry’s retirement income, but it also offers increased survivor protection. Upon Henry’s death, Julia will be entitled to receive 100% of what Henry was receiving (or was entitled to receive) at the time of his death. So by suspending his own retirement benefit in order to increase it through delayed retirement credits, Henry has ensured that Julia will receive a survivor’s benefit that is up to 32% higher for the rest of her life should he die first. (Note, though, that this hypothetical example is for illustrative purposes only and does not account for cost-of-living adjustments or taxes.)
Points to consider
- Deciding when to begin receiving Social Security benefits is a complicated decision. You’ll need to consider a number of scenarios, and take into account factors such as both spouses’ ages, estimated benefit entitlements, and life expectancies.
- Ask a financial professional to help you weigh the tax consequences of delaying Social Security income.
- Using the file-and-suspend strategy may not be advantageous when one spouse is in poor health or when Social Security income is needed as soon as possible.
- The spousal benefit will be reduced if the spouse claiming it is under full retirement age.
Social Security Workshop at Keller Public Library
August 11, 2010 by Jean Keener, CRPC, CFDP · Leave a Comment
I am conducting a free workshop on social security planning strategies at the Keller Public Library on Tuesday, August 17 at 6:30 pm. The session will cover what baby boomers need to know to maximize their retirement income. Attendees will learn:
- 5 factors to consider when deciding when to apply for benefits
- Why you should always check your earnings record for accuracy
- How to coordinate benefits with your spouse
- How to minimize taxes on Social Security benefits
- How to coordinate Social Security with your other sources of retirement income
Seating is limited, so please RSVP to library@cityofkeller.com to ensure your space.
July 2010 Personal Finance Newsletter
July 15, 2010 by Jean Keener, CRPC, CFDP · Leave a Comment
The July 2010 financial planning newsletter is now available. Topics include today’s investment market conditions, low mortgage interest rates, college scholarship strategies, required minimum distributions for 2010, and a reminder on staying vigilent against identity theft. An invitation to July’s free personal finance workshop on college savings strategies at the Keller Public Library is also included. The workshop is scheduled for Tuesday, July 20 at 6:30 pm. Click here to view the newsletter.
Interviewed by Wall Street Journal on keeping investing costs low
June 22, 2010 by Jean Keener, CRPC, CFDP · Leave a Comment
I was recently interviewed for the Wall Street Journal’s website about the importance of keeping investing costs low and how costs affect your long-term investment returns. You can read the article at WSJ.com.
June Monthly Newsletter
June 11, 2010 by Jean Keener, CRPC, CFDP · Leave a Comment
The June newsletter is now available with an investment market update and some historical perspective on stock market returns over time to put recent volatility into perspective. It also include a how-to on deciding if you should pay off your mortgage and an invitation to the upcoming budgeting workshop at the Keller Public Library. I’m also pleased to share in the newsletter that no-load, low-cost, passively managed Dimensional (DFA) Funds are now available for investment management clients. Click here to read the June 2010 newsletter.
Quoted by Jean Chatzky on Self-Employed Retirement Plans
June 2, 2010 by Jean Keener, CRPC, CFDP · Leave a Comment
I was recently quoted by Jean Chatzky on AOL’s DailyFinance.com on how the self-employed can save for retirement. While self-employed individuals do have to save more to make up for both their contributions and the employers, there are lots of great options available. Your choice of a Simple IRA, SEP IRA, Solo 401(k), or just a traditional or Roth IRA should be determined by your income, how much you want to save, your tax situation, and how much you want to contribute for any employees you have. See the full article on the Daily Finance Website.
Four Rules for Asset Allocation
May 25, 2010 by Jean Keener, CRPC, CFDP · Leave a Comment
As a special guest blog post, the Motley Fool staff has provided the following article on asset allocation. It’s an excellent summary of some of the most important concepts of investing and asset allocation, and is definitely worth the read. Enjoy!
By The Motley Fool
When it comes to asset allocation, the biggest decisions come down to how much you should have in cash, how much in bonds, and how much in stocks. These four rules for asset allocation will help you slice up your portfolio into these important pieces.
Rule 1: If you need the money in the next year, it should be in cash.
You don’t want the down payment for your vacation home to evaporate in a stock market — or bond market — crash. Keep it in a money market or savings account. And, of course, make sure it’s FDIC-insured.
Rule 2: If you need the money in the next one to five (or even seven) years, choose safe, income-producing investments such as Treasuries, certificates of deposit (CDs), or bonds.
Whether it’s your kid’s college money or the retirement income you’ll need in the not-so-distant future, stay away from stocks.
As with all investments, risk and reward go hand-in-hand when it comes to “safe” assets. So, in order of “safest” to “still safe but technically riskier,” we have Treasury notes and bills, CDs, and corporate bonds. That’s also the order of lowest- to highest-yielding. CDs are still very safe (as long as they’re FDIC insured), can usually be bought commission-free, and you should be able to find some that pay a percentage point above Treasuries. Shop around for the best rates; your local bank may not be the best-yielding option.
As for corporate bonds, the general rule is to choose bond mutual funds if you have less than $25,000 to $50,000 to invest. That’s because buying individual bonds can be tricky. With a stock, you can pull up a quote on your computer and — presto! — you have a good idea of the going price. However, most bonds don’t trade on a centralized exchange. And instead of charging a commission, most brokerages (discount and full-service) embed a “markup” in the price of the bond. This makes it difficult to know what fees you paid.
It is gradually becoming easier (and more cost-effective) to buy individual bonds, so it can be done if you’re willing to put in the effort. The advantage of individual bonds over bond funds is you know exactly how much you’ll get back when the bond matures. However, since bond funds don’t technically “mature,” you don’t know what your investment will be worth when you need the money. In fact, they can lose quite a bit of money, which can be inconvenient if it happens right before you need it.
If you’re going to choose a bond fund, stick with short- to intermediate-term bonds (i.e., bonds that mature in two to five years). And be vigilant about costs — you can find plenty of good funds with expense ratios below 0.50%.
Rule 3: Any money you don’t need for more than five to seven years is a candidate for the stock market.
We Fools are fans of the stock market, and we know our history. According to Ibbotson, large-cap stocks, on average, have returned 10.4% annually from 1926 to 2007, compared to 5.5% for long-term government bonds and 3.7% for short-term Treasury bills.
However, investors in stocks have to keep that “long run” part in mind, since in the short run, no one knows what stocks will do. Make no mistake: Even if you’re in or near retirement, a portion of your money should be invested for the long term. That’s because, according to the Center for Disease Control, a 55-year-old can expect to live another 26 years. A 65-year-old has another two decades. The average 75-year-old lives into her late 80s. A 110-year-old, however, should sell everything and get to Vegas while he still can.
So unless you’re a 95-year-old skydiver who smokes, expect your retirement to last two to three decades. To make sure your portfolio lasts that long, you should …
Rule 4: Always own stocks.
Over the long term, equities are the best vehicles to ensure your portfolio withstands inflation and your retirement spending.
According to Jeremy Siegel’s Stocks for the Long Run, for every rolling five-year investing period from 1802 to 2006 (i.e., 1802-1807, 1803-1808, etc.), stocks outperformed bonds 69% of the time. Stocks beat bonds in 80% of the rolling 10-year periods, and almost 100% of the rolling 30-year periods. For holding periods of 17 years or more, stocks have always beaten inflation, a claim bonds can’t make.
But don’t forget that four-letter word
The bottom line is that when you need your money will partially dictate where you put it. What else determines your asset allocation? Risk.
Most people base their investment strategies on the returns they want, but they have it backward. Instead, focus on managing risk and accept the returns that go along with your tolerance for it. It’d be great if we could get plump returns with no risk at all. But to achieve returns beyond a minimal level, we have to invest in things that involve the possibility that we’ll lose money.
Of course, this isn’t just hypothetical theory for modern investors. The 2000s have brought us two wrenching bear markets, a mere six years apart. (Maybe there was something to all that Y2K hullabaloo after all!). Have you been able to hold on — or did you panic and sell? That’s the true test of an investor’s risk tolerance: the ability to cling to those shares as they become worth less and less, while clinging to the hope (based on history, but nothing more) that they will one day be worth more and more.
So ask yourself: What would you do if your portfolio dropped 10%, 20%, or 40% from its current level? Would it change your lifestyle? If you’re retired, can you rely on other resources such as Social Security or pensions, or would you have to go back to work (and how would you feel about that)? How you answer those questions will lead you to your risk tolerance. The lower your stomach for portfolio ups and downs, the more your portfolio should be in bonds.
As an extra aid in determining your mix of stocks and bonds, consider the following table, from William Bernstein’s The Intelligent Asset Allocator:
|
I can tolerate losing ___% of my portfolio in the course of earning higher returns |
Recommended % of portfolio invested in stocks |
|
35% |
80% |
|
30% |
70% |
|
25% |
60% |
|
20% |
50% |
|
15% |
40% |
|
10% |
30% |
|
5% |
20% |
|
0% |
10% |
So, according to Bernstein, if you can’t stand seeing your portfolio drop 20% in value, then no more than 50% of your money should be in stocks. Sounds like a very good guideline to us.
Copyright © 1995-2010 The Motley Fool. All rights reserved. Used with permission. www.fool.com
Should you pay off the mortgage?
May 18, 2010 by Jean Keener, CRPC, CFDP · 1 Comment
One of the best financially freeing moments in life is the day you compare your savings and mortgage principal balances and realize that you could pay off your mortgage if you wanted to. If you’re at that point, congratulations! If you’re not there yet, keep saving; it can come sooner than you think.
Of course, immediately following the discovery of being able to pay off the mortgage comes a question: should I? Here’s how you decide:
First, consider what you would do with the money if you didn’t pay off the mortgage.
Would it sit in savings, be invested for long-term retirement goals, or something else? Based on your plans if you didn’t pay off the mortgage, you can estimate a rate of return you expect to receive. From this rate of return, you’ll need to subtract taxes paid on the earnings (15% if capital gains, your income tax rate if regular interest).
Second, figure out what your mortgage is costing you.
Look at your interest rate, calculate the annual interest expense, and subtract any income tax savings you’re receiving. Be sure to avoid over-estimating the benefits of tax savings. For example, if your mortgage interest is $5,000 and you have another $8,000 of itemized deductions, your total itemized deductions are $13,000. If you’re married filing jointly, the standard deduction is $11,400 this year. So the mortgage interest is only increasing your deductions by $1,600. If you’re in the 28% tax bracket, this equates to a $448 tax savings.
Third, compare your answer in step 1 with your answer in step 2.
If it’s costing you more to keep your mortgage than you would earn with the money invested or in the bank, then you should generally pay off the mortgage. If you can get a greater return on your investments than what your mortgage is costing you, then you should generally keep the money invested and wait to pay off the mortgage.
Of course there are exceptions and other considerations including:
If you would be taking the pay-off money out of a pre-tax IRA or deferred compensation in a lump sum, take a really close look at the tax consequences of that lump sum withdrawal! They can often totally cancel out any savings on the mortgage interest.
If you would be using “retirement” savings funds to pay off the mortgage, you really need to look at your retirement projections and ensure that they still work with the funds withdrawn. If your projections rely on you beginning to save what you’re currently paying on the mortgage, know yourself. Will you stick with this savings program? If not, probably best to just keep your retirement funds intact and continue paying the mortgage.
If paying off the mortgage would take your emergency funds dangerously low or short-change funds for other important goals, it’s likely not a good idea.
Making your decision
While it seems like a fairly straight-forward question, when you think about the whole picture, you realize there are lots of what-ifs and options to consider. The important thing is to take time to do your homework, complete the analysis, and seek professional assistance if needed.
Even if the process reveals you’re better off with the mortgage, you might still want to go ahead and pay it off because of the peace-of-mind benefit that comes from not having any debt. If that’s the case, by going through the process thoughtfully and thoroughly, you will know what you’re giving up financially for that peace of mind so you can make an informed decision about whether it’s worth it to you.
And if the process does show that you would be better off getting rid of that mortgage, you can move forward with confidence.
Of course, everyone’s situation is different. While the process described above addresses many considerations, you may have some issues not addressed here or that are unique to you. Make sure you fully consider your own situation before making any decision.